Crabs. One shell, two pincers and a devilish expression – who’d have guessed beneath that rather feisty exterior, the sideways crawlers would taste so tender and juicy? Yet to those in the know, not any old crab will do and in previous years the more hairy the crustacean, the better the dinner. Which may be more in the mind than in distinctive taste buds – it’s still nearly impossible to spot the genuine whiskered article from its numerous imitators, despite branding shells (copied in seconds) and suggestions that the little blighters carry passports. Marco Polo chef Philip Chung has spent years examining crabs said to come from Jiangsu’s plentiful lakes – the area from which true hairy crabs originate – and is still mystified. “I can hardly tell – who knows?” he says with a laugh.
It seems that soon it might not matter as Hong Kongers are growing tired of the trend that previously prompted so much fascination. An army of impostors from surrounding lakes means ‘hairy crabs’ are an all-too-familiar sight on menus, and in trend-conscious Hong Kong it doesn’t do to eat what everybody else is eating. Chef Chung reports a slow start to this year’s season, suggesting that the brunette upstarts may face growing competition from a slew of other more glamorous eight-legged varieties. This year his autumn menu volunteers many other crabs – of the unhairy variety.
Butterfield’s Andreas Muller has been cooking for over 20 years, and believes that crab in general is popular because folks grew tired of ‘ordinary’ seafood. He has seen buffet-table trends come and go – from Atlantic salmon to freshly shucked oysters and now the growing popularity of bulging Alaskan
crab legs. The latest hot item coming from his kitchen at Butterfields, a private members club in Taikoo, is US snow crabs. “I see people take nine at a time,” he says, “and I think, ‘Slow down – we have plenty’.”
But what tastes better? According to Muller, it depends on each person’s preference. US crabs are normally deep-water shellfish, and those that swim deepest have firmer textures and a saltier taste. The famous Alaskans, king crabs and snow crabs are all deep-water varieties. Locals – blue, spotted and sand crabs – swim in warmer waters and their flesh is flakier and sweeter by comparison. Tai Hu lake in China is said to produce the best hairy crabs because of its colder water.
The ease of cracking into limbs and nothing else means larger-legged crabs are far less messy to get into. Muller mentions that smaller local crabs usually remain on the table unless they are prepared and dressed, in which case they fly.
Back in the hairy crab corner, Chef Lee Keung, executive Chinese chef at Island Shangri-La, says not just flesh is important. His autumn hairy crab menu focuses on crab roe – if you are a fan of the oozing innards, keep to the female species, which has a distinctive red-orange colour and creamier texture. Keung likes to balance the strong shellfish flavours with mild ingredients like egg or bird’s nest.
“Its all about prestige,” Muller says, noting that to ship crab in from the US is reaching astronomical prices. Up to $400 per kilo of Alaskan crab, with a minimum crate of 25 kilos, means menu prices are rising accordingly. Live US crabs can be double or even triple that cost. He remembers watching amazed as a family of five gorged on Boston lobster and Alaskan crab legs at Ocean Terminal recently, but with the economic upturn he expects to see more people treating themselves.
Head to Hokkaido. In HK the crabs are among the hardest to hunt down. Worldwide demand for the bright orange crustacean with the round body and enviably long legs is high, and most are destined for Japanese kitchens. A recent live promotion in here saw them trading upwards of $700 dollars apiece, so where should a crab connoisseur look for new
pieces of meat at a sweet deal? Thailand and Indonesia have begun farming sweet-water swimmers, while Australia’s crops are booming. For those looking to splurge, America’s East coast is prime hunting ground. Succulent Dungeness crabs, with thick skins, both brown and white meat and monstrous claws, are said to take some beating. If hairy crab fever really is on the wane, look out for these and other boutique crabs on menus soon. |
On the menu: Specials (at $420 per piece) are hairy crabs with minced pork and egg, or try Chef Lee Keung’s recommended crab roe in braised dumplings with seafood ($220). Inquisitive tongues may be tempted by a crab onslaught – the $780 menu comprises crab roe in Shanghai dumplings, bird’s nest and baked fried rice.
On the menu: At $1,880 for four people, the crab feast includes hairy crabs with steamed garoupa, sweet potato dumplings with ginger tea and double boiled shark’s fin soup. A la carte hairy crab is $138 a pop, while crab cream and pork dumplings are $18 per piece.
On the menu: Sample fabulously fleshy Alaskan crab legs for $250 on the highest deck of a Chinese junk. Pair them with a jumbo Margarita, that’s big enough for four to share ($74).
On the menu: In a belly busting, all-you-can-eat, feast, Alaskan crab legs and Andreas Muller’s ‘hot item’ Canadian snow crabs are $168, Monday – Friday
On the menu: Span the globe with an assortment of over 20 crab dishes. From Japanese inspired tempura soft shells to Hunan spicy crab and Thai curry crab cakes, the choice is staggering. Available until October 31, $308 for adults.
On the menu: Hutong’s Northern Chinese cuisine is served modern and without MSG. Drunken raw crab is marinated in wine for three days and comes cold ($188), while it is almost impossible to see the crispy soft shells buried beneath deep red chillies in this fiery Szechwan stunner.
