The origin of Sze Fong Choi, directly translated as ‘private kitchen’ in English or even ‘speakeasy’ as some people call it, can be traced back to the Qing dynasty. The term refers to an unlicensed eatery, usually hiding in an ordinary apartment in a block of flats. Usually there will be no signs outside the premises and the only advertising is by word of mouth.

As a rule, private kitchens don’t prepare menus for customers to choose from. They serve dishes made from the freshest available ingredients of the day. Exclusivity is what makes a Sze Fong Choi special and you may need to book months in advance for the more popular ones. The private kitchen not only provides homemade dishes and drinks, but also a sense of being at home in a cozy, intimate and friendly environment.

In Hong Kong, private kitchens became trendy in the late ’90s as a result of the economic downturn. Starting a business closeted in some upstairs den can avoid high rents and thus save operation costs, but as business starts to grow, some private kitchens can’t remain private any longer. Some are so good the media will use every means to find out where they are and report on them.

However, that is not the main concern of private kitchens. Rather legal issues are always on the minds of owners – as well as on the minds of the government and restaurant owners. Though some private kitchens run as a private club under government regulation, the legislative council has been discussing regulating all private kitchens. In particular, restrictions under consideration include that the maximum seating capacity should be no more than 24 persons at any one time, business hours should not extend beyond three-and-a-half hours per day and take-away services are forbidden.

While the first restriction is to ensure the operation will not cause a nuisance in the neighbourhood, the latter two address the concern that private kitchens are usually less hygienic than general restaurants. But like many other issues in Hong Kong, it will take the Legco forever to make a decision. Before you go too hungry, we have a few choices of private kitchens for your pleasure.

Opened in July last year, Alcove (G/F, 55 Peel St, Soho, Central, 2975 9788) was not meant to be a private kitchen. Furniture designer Nelson Siu wanted to open his own furniture shop and was looking for a place in Central. When he sat down in a teahouse on Peel Street, the chef told him the owner was looking to sell the place and that’s how Alcove was born. Alcove serves Chinese fusion cuisine and their latest offer is Taidiao Fondue. Inspired by the Swiss dish, Alcove uses Taidiao, a kind of Chinese yellow wine as its base. Ingredients to go with the fondue include king clam, scallop, Japanese Wagyu and Chinese sausage. Another specialty of Alcove is its original Chinese cocktail, using a Hua Diao, Fen Liquor and Taishan special blend for a taste you will not have experienced before. An eight-course dinner costs from $268 to $388 per person depending on ingredients. And while you are busy savouring all that good food, take a glance around at the decor and furniture – it’s all is designed by Nelson, down to the bowls and plates!

As the name suggests, Bon Appetit (132 Austin Road, Tai Chi Court, TST, 2314 3008) serves French cuisine, as well as Italian and Chinese food – or a fusion of the three. Owner Sue, a Christian, opened the kitchen four years ago and loves sharing her beliefs with her customers. The house specialty is the soup they’ve called ‘Heart of a Woman’, in which gazpacho is ambushed by a hot, thick pumpkin soup, giving the diner a simultaneous hot-and-cold sensation which, according to Sue, is like a woman’s heart. Bon Appetit can serve 30-40 customers at a time, but a minimum of two persons is required to book a table. No walk-in is allowed. For bookings, call 2314 3008.

Arts critic Lau Kin Wai opened Yellow Door (6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, 2858 6555) in 2002. Famous for its Sichuan and Shanghai-style cuisine, Yellow Door insists that no MSG and artificial flavourings are used in their dishes. Their most popular dishes include the traditional Shanghai-style eight-treasure duck and Sichuan dan dan noodle. Due to popular demand, the kitchen now also opens for an a la carte lunch from 12pm-3pm. For a set dinner, prepare to fill yourself with eight starters and six main courses with dim sum and dessert – for just $250 per person. Telephone bookings are preferred, though they also serve walk-in customers if seats are available. A minimum of two people is required.

Chef Jacky Yu decided to leave the advertising industry and open Xi Yan (3/F, Hang Wai Commercial Building, 231-233 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, 2575 6966) in 2000. He blends traditional Chinese food with various other Asian cuisines for dishes like the signature Xi Yan Hot and Spicy Sauce Chicken, in which the tender chicken meat and side dishes, including preserved egg, are soaked through with spicy sauce. The response to Xi Yan has been so good, Yu decided to open a branch, Sweets, in Singapore. The kitchen offers a regular menu from Tuesday to Thursday for $360 per person and a special seafood menu on Friday and Saturday for $480. Light and refreshing, a 12-course meal is offered with four appetizers, seven main courses and a dessert, with a minimum of six people required for a table. Book your seat early as this popular private kitchen sometimes has a two-month waiting list!