JJs Thai (Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, 2584 7662) has introduced a new set lunch menu (two courses at $98, three courses at $118) and we dropped in to give it a try. We started with deep-fried breaded bean curd with tamarind dip, the deliciously crunchy coating of breadcrumbs contrasted nicely with soft, fluffy tofu punctuated by the tang of the tamarind. Our main was traditional red curry with roasted duck served with vermicelli – the curry was flavourful with just enough spice to leave the satisfaction of a tingling tongue. To finish with we had the choice of sorbet or ice cream – we picked the latter and were rewarded with a rich, creamy homemade caramelized milk. We also checked out the new a la carte menu and were caught by smoky tender beef with lime and chilli seasoning, green curry, and two desserts: coconut crème brulee (served in a coconut shell on a bed of ice) and warm dark chocolate chilli tartlette with mango sorbet – the rich taste had a sinful kick.

If you are planning on wandering around Tin Hau, make a point to stop by Savoye (Shop A G/F Hon Man Mansion, 9-11 Wing Hing Street, Tin Hau, 2503 3222), a new restaurant serving French cuisine. Owner and manager Terry Chan was an architecture student inspired by the Villa Savoye in Poissy, France to design a restaurant with large windows and high ceilings. The interior of the restaurant has an almost rustic feel, but with its leather chairs and long sofa benches has just the right amount of modern touches. Next door is Villa, their spa: Chan had the idea of opening a combination spa and restaurant when vacationing in Thailand, where a similar venue allowed him to enjoy a relaxing massage followed by a fine meal.

Cheese Chatter
Edam, Harvati, Limburger or Blue – you slice it, Elliot Dodd will appraise it. The cheese master from the UK is currently sharing his passion for fromage at Classified, the food shop with the cheese room.

How did you become a big cheese about, er, cheese, Elliot?
I started working with cheese about eight years ago, when I was a student and needed some extra money around Christmas time. I got a job in Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and the company really encouraged us to take an interest in the product we were selling. It was fascinating to see how things were produced out on the farms and since then I’ve loved cheese. It’s such a basic food but can be so complex with different flavours and textures.

So it’s a complicated process to make cheese, then?
Processes can vary, depending on the type of cheese you want, where the cheese is produced and how long you keep it for. For instance, to get sweeter flavours in cheese, the milk needs to be heated up to about 50˚C, to release the sugars in the milk. Most cheese will be made at 40˚C, so really only a slight rise in temperature can make all the difference to how it tastes.

Wow! Does the stuff I get at the supermarket get the same treatment?
Well, no. The care that goes into handling cheese on small farms and dairies far exceeds that for cheese mass-produced for supermarkets. That stuff is made in a factory, so it all tastes exactly the same. With cheeses like those you find here at Classified from family cheese makers and farms, there’s a little variation with each block because each is handled individually. Every little thing makes a difference; even slight variations can make the same type of cheese taste very different among blocks – from the amount of salt you put in, to the period of maturation and how much rennet is used.

Rennet – that’s basically bits from an animal, right?
Technically it’s an enzyme from the animal’s stomach that helps the cheese set. It was probably first discovered when people used the stomach to carry milk for long journeys and realized it had set from sitting with the enzymes.

Is that why so many vegetarians say they can’t eat cheese?
Well, they can, because many cheeses these days are made with vegetable rennet, but that stuff is made in factories and completely unnatural. I think it’s more natural and sensible to use the rennet from the young calf because it’s going to be used for meat anyway. You may as well use all of the animal rather than just some bits and not others.

Don’t let PETA catch you saying that! So for the newbie to fromage, what is the best way to eat cheese?
You can eat it in anything really; most cheeses melt. But it seems a bit silly to melt down cheeses like these that have had so much effort put into them. Quince paste is a great pairing for a lot of hard cheeses because of the sweet taste, and it’s a great mouth refresher after you’ve eaten something particularly strong like a blue cheese. But all these cheeses here have such intense and rich flavours you don’t need to make it too complicated – have them on their own, or pair them with some wine and just enjoy.

Elliot Dodd will be at Classified until April, holding regular cheese tasting and cheese and wine pairing sessions on weekends. Classified, 108 Hollywood Road, Central. Phone 2525 3454.