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17 August 2006

Terminal Extravagance

Hong Kong airport is the 14th busiest in the world serving 44,000,000 people in 2006. No wonder it needs a new terminal – or should that be high-end shopping and entertainment centre?



If you’re of a certain age, 3D movies are a distant, vaguely amusing memory of cinema-goers circa 1955 in identical clunky white cardboard glasses gaping and cringing as flicks such as House of Wax or Bwana Devil seemingly tossed terror right into their laps.

In the same short-lived film fad, Smell-O-Vision and Aroma-Rama pumped atmospheric scents into movie theatres at appropriate moments in a film. Smell-O-Vision’s big moment came – and went – in 1960 for a film appropriately titled Scent of Mystery. The reviews stank and while some movie-goers condemned the annoying hissing that signalled the release of the odours, others complained that the scents were too faint, resulting in loud collective sniffs in the audience.

But what was old is new again at Hong Kong International Airport’s newly opened Terminal 2 SkyPlaza, a 35,000 sq metre, 110-plus outlet “shopping and dining Mecca”.

Only a 3-minute walk from Terminal 1, Terminal 2 currently hosts only two airlines, Emirates and Oasis, but it does have ways other than shopping and eating to make flight delays and long layovers more bearable. Like the five-storey 4D Extreme Screen (6P059, 3559 1070) – “the largest 4D screen in all of Asia,’’ according to MCL Cinema – that combines 21st century 3D technology with an updated take on Smell-O-Vision: now during an outdoor scene viewers may smell flowers, feel a breeze or a sprinkling of showers, or see fog or snow waft through the theatre.

Currently, three flicks at 4D Extreme Screen offer a choice of sensory effects ranging from 3D-only to the complete 4D experience. The Legend of the White Horse is one that features a complete package of in-your-face thrills with varied fragrances and in-house wind, fog, rain and lightning. It’s a 1986 Polish-American adventure movie for children with tickets costing $50 for adults and $30 for youngsters. That is at the low end of admission prices which range up to $75 for adults and $50 for children.

That’s not all the cinema-centric fare at SkyPlaza, however. At Asia Hollywood (6P006, 3559 1419) you can find an assortment of memorabilia and games inspired by classic Hong Kong cinema: parked at the entrance is the Toyota AE 86 Trueno that doubled as a mountain racer and tofu delivery vehicle for Jay Chou in the 2005 film Initial D. Sadly, though, the facility’s collection lacks anything related to the legendary Bruce Lee. With your $20 entrance fee comes a $20 play-coupon for interactive games such as Shooting Gallery – (inspired by the stunning one-take opening scene of the 2004 Kelly Chen, Nick Cheung crime drama Breaking News) or a game based on 2002’s Infernal Affairs. Most games range from $30 to $60, so in addition to the admission fee you might expect to spend another $40-$80 depending on your skills and flight time. If athletics are more your style, you can get physical at I-Sports (6P003) an interactive sports simulation centre where you actually have to move more than a trigger finger in games such as basketball, boxing, and golf.

And in keeping with the overall ambience (we are in an airport terminal, after all) the Aviation Discovery Centre (6P061) is an educational and interactive attraction where visitors can enrich their knowledge and understanding of aviation and test their skills on a flight simulator. Hong Kong schools will soon be sponsoring trips for students to the centre, possibly in hopes that the combination of learning and entertainment will provide Hong Kong with future pilots.

Terminal 2’s SkyPlaza is being touted as a gotta-go-to destination for locals and airline passengers alike. “For the international traveller it’s a smaller version of multi-cultural Hong Kong and for locals it’s a window of what the best of the world can offer,” said one publicist. If “multi-cultural Hong Kong” and “the best of the world’’ means a high-end shopping centre, then indeed Hong Kong’s stereotype as a shopping and entertainment-obsessed hub is neatly encapsulated in the terminal.

“A person could spend a week there and never feel the need to leave the airport,’’ the same publicist added enthusiastically, unintentionally triggering thoughts of Tom Hanks as the hapless eastern European traveller living in limbo at New York’s JFK airport in The Terminal. But Hanks’ character didn’t have 25 dining choices from Burger King to Korean barbeque, retail outlets from the usual high fashion, stuffed animals and electronics to the more extraordinary (an oxygen bar, Cambodian arts and crafts), and four entertainment outlets.

When it comes to diverting a passenger’s attention from the fact that he or she is waiting in an airport, SkyPlaza and Hong Kong International Airport win hands down compared to other big-ticket aviation hubs such as JFK, Narita in Japan or LAX in Los Angeles. LAX, for example, is located in a near-ghetto, isolated from all the glamour and glitz the world associates with Los Angeles. At that airport there is nothing to do and nothing to see. Travellers arrive, check in, sit, stare at the walls and each other, wait, finally struggle through security and fly. In contrast, at Terminal 2 you can shop ’til you drop, hang out in an alcohol or oxygen bar, dine on fare ranging from 7-Eleven microwaved munchies to organic fruits and juices at Morninghaz or green tea noodles at Czen. One advert for Terminal 2 even celebrates a local couple going on a SkyPlaza dinner date – knowing that if there is one activity Hong Kong likes more than shopping, it’s eating. And the terminal is not coy about exploiting that obsession either.

If you’re in a rush after checking in and want something quick and a little different, Habibi Café (5P171, 3559 1433) serves Egyptian-Mediterranean casual food. The small shop specializes in take-out orders and is right behind the check-in counters so you could phone in your order while standing in the queue to check your luggage through. The Kebab Lamb Sandwich ($68) flavours shavings of lamb with fresh savoury herbs but for the calorie conscious gourmet, Shish Tawouk ($60) is tenderly grilled chicken in yogurt sauce. It packs a flavourful punch without piling on the pounds.

For a taste of our sister SAR without making the trip, Macao Harbour Restaurant features Macao-style pork buns while pizza lovers will find variety and some old favourites at Famous Famiglia (Level 6, Shop 095, 3197 9445). The Famiglia chain began in New York City but has expanded to airports, stadiums, universities and casinos throughout the USA. Its spot in SkyPlaza is the chain’s Asia debut and it isn’t shy about showing off its celebrity customers, with autographed pictures of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Adam Sandler, and Nicolas Cage on the walls. The Italian stramboli ($26 for a slice) is the most popular item, with a choice of sausage, pepperoni or spinach. The VIP ($30 for a slice, $140 for whole) is a closed pizza with stuffed spicy ham and salami. Not too hungry? The garlic knots – aptly named garlic bread tied into knots – go for $13 for five pieces and $25 for
10 pieces.

Craving traditional Chinese food? Wong Chi Key (6P051, 3559 1025) is a noodle/congee house in the traditional Chinese mould, except the dining tables are out in the open. The Chief Special Congee offerings are the premier specialities, and the price sure reflects it – $100 for each of the abalone and prawn and abalone and scallops congees. For more seafood including crabs fresh from the salt-water tank, $160 will deliver delicious seafood congee. However, braised noodles with wonton and shrimp eggs ($40) or curry beef brisket and rice ($40) will leave your wallet feeling a lot less empty.

Japanese fast food and sit-and-enjoy dining can both be found at the terminal. The oddly named Baltic Japanese Curry Ramen (6P036, 3197 9301) is perfect for noodle lovers on the go. Their signature Baltic jiro spicy ramen and tonkatsu curry and rice are both $48. To complement your order with a salad and a choice of either soda, coffee, or tea, you’ll have to add $8 to the bill. For more relaxed and sedate Japanese dining, Itamae-sushi (6P037, 3197 9404) offers both a ‘kaiten’ (rotating) sushi counter and traditional sushi bar. With a casually decorated homely feel, it’s one of the more popular choices for airline and airport employees and travellers alike.

Sarangchae is a colourfully decorated Korean restaurant with a selection of contemporary Korean grilled, stewed, fried and noodle dishes. Most popular is the supreme size grilled beef short ribs (kalbi) with mild seasonings ($230) but also interesting spicy baby octopus with vegetables ($130) is tender octopus imported from Korean waters wrapped in fresh lettuce.

Among several quality options for snacks and drinks, The Heineken Bar (6P032, 3559 1445) is a small open bar island with a good view of the terminal one floor below. It is contemporary and thoroughly comfortable with metallic silver booths and green tables. Snacks delicious on their own or that go down well with a wine, cocktail or tall, cool Heineken include spare ribs ($48) and Mediterranean salad ($22). Happy hour runs from 4 pm to 9 pm with 40% off all draft beer – this is a very good place to relax if you have a little time to kill.

Speaking of bars, the Detox and Oxy Bar (6P013, 2269 0138) is great for a stimulating hit of fresh air. Prices start at $45 for five minutes, though first-timers also have to pony up $20 for a reusable personal nostril tube. It must be a not-so-subtle pitch for repeat business, as you’re supposed to bring it back for future sessions… The Oxy Bar makes some rather broad claims about the benefits of oxygen as a cure-all for diseases and hangovers, and as a weight loss solution. “Insufficiency of oxygen is the cause of all disease,” states a promotional pamphlet citing a Dr H Noguchi as the dubious medical authority. But the worst damage it can do is to your wallet. All O2 sessions include free internet access and a choice of soft beverages. All in all, it’s probably an excellent idea for those just arriving in Hong Kong ­a chance to give their lungs one last refreshing blast of pure air before stepping out into the local
smog soup.

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