 D.I.Y. Lamma Tour
There are two options for getting to Lamma Island: the Convenient Way, or the DIY which leaves more room for culinary and cultural exploration. For the former, simply hop onto a Rainbow ferry at Central Pier No 9, and you’ll be escorted to a meal at one of the Rainbow-run restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan. These serve fine meals, and know what visitors – Hong Kongers, Mainland Chinese, or westerners – like for lunch. However, for adventurers who dare to do it on their own, bc has put together an itinerary for a day spent exploring the best of Lamma Island. You’ll get to see much of the island’s diverse flora and fauna and perhaps some surprises along the way. The circuit can be done in either direction and takes an hour to 90 minutes, depending on your pace. However, completing your trip in Yung Shue Wan gives you a good chance of a spectacular sunset – thanks to a polluted horizon wreaking colourful havoc with the sun’s rays – and a more frequent ferry service to get you back home.
From Seafood Restaurants to Sweet Snacks
Ferries to Sok Kwu Wan run less frequently than those to Yung Shue Wan, so it’s best to check ferry schedules at www.hkkf.com.hk before arriving at the pier. If you prefer to avoid crowds and will be charmed by the local atmosphere of an off-peak afternoon, head to Lamma any time besides Sundays and holidays. Just tap an Octopus card on the turnstile or slip some coins through the slot, and you’re on your way. Hong Kong ferries can get as frigid as the MTR, so be sure to take enough layers of clothing for temperature extremes. Arriving at midday will give you time to stroll along the pier and have lunch, before heading across the island to Yung Shue Wan.
Sok Kwu Wan means ‘Picnic Bay’ and there is plenty of pleasant scenery in the area for an al fresco meal, but the majority of visitors end up at one of the many great seafood restaurants on the waterfront. Most of those restaurants specialize in Chinese-style seafood, and cater to families and groups, so their prices are geared towards large tables ordering multiple courses. Selection varies somewhat between restaurants but, thanks to fierce competition, the quality is generally quite good.
After disembarking from the ferry, you could take a left and lunch at the intriguingly named Genuine Lamma Hilton Fishing Village Restaurant, open even during the off-peak season. As with several other restaurants on Sok Kwu Wan’s Seafood Strip, customers are lured in with the promise of a free beer or bottle of wine to offset the prices of the set menus. Presumably Genuine Lamma’s name was inspired by the view: tables overlook the fishing village and dramatic junks that jut against the sky, a short sampan ride away.
Alternatively, you can pick up snacks in the village for the two-hour round trip hike to Mount Stenhouse. Be sure to take plenty of food, water, a mobile phone – and most important of all, a friend with a decent sense of direction. Trails aren’t clearly marked, and a careless hiker could twist an ankle if not consistently mindful of where they’re treading. Rocks on the mountain rise in dramatic formations. “They’re something people would have revered in the Stone Age, or used as a shelter at night. You also get some magnificent views from the summit,” says Roy McClean, a Lamma resident who’s done the hike numerous times.
Those who come to Sok Kwu Wan to satisfy seafood cravings rather than hike up rocky mountains, will find plenty of choices, even on an off-peak day. Westerners will be enticed with calls of “Fried rice? Calamari? Free beer! No service charge!” as they wander past multi-coloured fish swimming in aerated tanks. While most restaurants advertise their more lucrative set menus, you can often order a single dish on request. An alternative to set menu eateries is the cheerful Tong Gae Restaurant, No. 14 on the Seafood Strip. It features simple dishes of Chinese canteen-style food, ideal for visitors who prefer the flexibility of ordering for their own appetites. The Tong Gae ranks among the most affordable waterfront dining experiences in Hong Kong. And the Lamma Sweet House snack shop has a great selection of Chinese sweets for sustenance on short hikes.
Those who’ve chosen the Convenient Way to Sok Kwu Wan have to eat in a Rainbow restaurant. The company owns several on the seafood strip, some with other names, like Winstar whose advertorial wall promises it is a ‘hip hangout’ and ‘elegance bar’. On Sundays and holidays the place can be jammed with diners, but more seaside tables are available on off-peak days.
A new attraction for visitors to Sok Kwu Wan is the Lamma Fisherfolk’s Village. Another creation by the Rainbow group, it is Lamma’s answer to the tourist hotspots on Lantau Island. It’s a well-organized operation, with a kiosk directly in front of the Rainbow pier, and a private sampan service to ferry passengers out to the village. Several family-friendly activities include a kids’ zone, ‘funny hookless fishing’, and the opportunity to get hands-on experience of a dragon-boat drum. Perhaps the most interesting part is the restored junk, where you can get a glimpse of the claustrophobic life led by junk-dwellers throughout southern China. “It’s amazing. You can see their tiny beds – you couldn’t even stand up inside – and where they would cook their meals in a small wooden kitchen, something so dangerous we can’t imagine today,” says local resident Lamma-Gung.
Several packages are available, ranging from $30-$88, depending on your length of stay. See it before you go at www.fisherfolks.com.hk
Kamikaze Caves, Beaches, and Barbeques
As you take the paved concrete path towards Yung Shue Wan, you’ll pass the obligatory Tin Hau temple, in honour of our favourite protective maritime goddess. The original temple, dating from the early 19th century, was destroyed by fire in 2004. It was rebuilt in colourful brick and concrete a year later. Also, keep an eye out for several Kamikaze Grottoes from WW II, reminders of a failed attempt to attack the Allies from hideouts on Lamma Island.
A 15-minute walk from Sok Kwu Wan will take you to the Natural Resort/Natural Café, also known as ‘the ice-cream place’. Though the restaurant was recently under renovation, it still serves ice cream and drinks, and is a welcome stopover after an uphill climb on a hot afternoon.
The best beach on Lamma is a further 10-minute walk towards Yung Shue Wan at Lo So Shing. Very few people live nearby, so it’s less crowded and is the cleanest public beach on the island. An ideal spot for barbeques and lounging about, any day of the week.
Depending on your pace, you’ll arrive at Hung Shing Yeh beach after a half-hour or more, walking along the granite and concrete coastal path, through thinned-out forest and serene sea views. Hikers can tackle the mountain-bike trails that branch off in different directions, but only if prepared with food and water, a friend and common sense.
Power Station Silhouettes, Pigeons, and Dofu Fa
While Power Station Beach may be spacious, it’s more of a haven for dog-owners and all-night partiers than visitors, who prefer the more developed Hung Shing Yeh area.
The power station is a striking feature in the Lamma landscape, an iconic image for many who live there. At night with its eerie red lighting it looks like the less benevolent nuclear power plant straight out of a Simpsons cartoon. Its construction on Lamma brought an influx of foreign workers to the island several decades ago, and began the mix of cultures that continues today. “One of the changes I’ve noticed in the past six years has been a more diverse population. It’s less west-centric, no longer exclusively British/Chinese. There are more Thais, Filipinos, Indonesians, and Sri Lankans making their home here than before,” says Lamma-Gung. The restaurant scene in and around Yung Shue Wan has been diversifying at a similar pace, but a few classics still deserve a mention…
The famous Han Lok Yuen, or ‘Pigeon’ Restaurant is still going strong. It can be difficult to find, but just look up the hill from Hung Shing Yeh and you’ll see it. It’s worth the hike up the hill on a humid afternoon for the views alone. For a place that advertises as a pigeon restaurant, it has a limited approach to squab preparation: the bird is served roasted, and that’s it. Still, it is succulent as pigeons go and a variety of Chinese dishes to suit most tastes makes up for any lack of imagination with the eponymous bird.
The Concerto Inn is popular with families, thanks to a well-equipped play area and spacious seating. The menu is varied, and the view can’t be beat, though service can be slow.
On the way to Yung Shue Wan, keep an eye out for “the Tofu Place”, as locals refer to it. Run by A-Por and her husband since the power station construction days long ago, it is well marked on Sundays and weekends by the long queue of customers stretching along the path near the shade of banana trees. They’re all waiting for a small portion of A-Por’s delicious
dofu-fa, or soft and sweet tofu. If you prefer it even sweeter, a box of red sugar (a specialty of Guangdong) is a fixture on every table.
Turkish Pizza and Thai Takeaway
Yung Shue Wan’s Main and Back Streets are lined with restaurants. They accommodate the appetites of the thousands of tourists who flock to Lamma every weekend, but often struggle to survive during off-peak season, as the island has a total of only 6,000 residents. Specialization has proved successful for many of them.
Best Kebab, on Yung Shue Wan’s Back Street serves other dishes as well as kebabs, including a Turkish pizza residents rave about, and genuine Turkish coffee and fruit teas. Nearby, Shelley’s Cake Shoppe offers up a delectable array of cheesecakes while across the street Lo Yau Gei, or the ‘Old Friends’ noodle shop is famous among locals for its tender wontons. Its English menu is taped to the side of the kitchen window. One restaurant almost exclusively visited by locals is The Waterfront, just off Main Street: great value, and an even better ambience. Staff are friendly and speak several languages between them, and quality is consistent. Best of all, it has the nicest seafront seating in Yung Shue Wan. The turnoff is at the junction of paths to Hung Shing Yeh and the Yung Shue Wan ferry pier. Look for a discreet chalkboard sign. If you reach the Tin Hau temple, you’ve gone too far. Several other classics in Lamma dining are also still going strong: the eco-friendly Bookworm Café, the ever-expanding Deli Lamma, and the local seafood choice for many, Lancombe on Main Street. Sampan Restaurant, also on Main St, gets the vote by many for the best dim sum. Thai Thai’s staff serve a good curry in huge portions, with more meat than one would ever find at a street-side restaurant in Bangkok. It is popular with day trippers for its reasonably-priced satays, perfect for taking to the beach.
Other DIY lunch/dinner options include Geng’s chicken at Lamma Gourmet, available in whole or half sizes. Geng also stocks western deli items – olives, cheeses, and meats – at prices well below those in Hong Kong. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to try some of her delicious Thai dishes, but she insists on the freshest ingredients; if they’re not available, neither are her dinners. Lamma’s still on the Thai kick, so on Sundays and holidays, look for a discreet Thai street stall near the Animal Welfare Society – there you’ll find the best spicy sausages on the entire island. Tropicana serves sandwiches and freshly-squeezed juices with a smile. Its sweet and savoury combinations can’t be beat: my favourite is the mango chicken. And one of the last stops before the Yung Shue Wan ferry pier also has fresh bakery items and sandwiches for takeaway: at Green Cottage Cafe the staff are very friendly.
The Bay
One restaurant that’s rarely visited by locals or visitors is The Bay, in Mo Tat Wan. To reach it you can either take a ferry from Aberdeen to Sok Kwu Wan and walk from there, or, if you’re one of the lucky ones, sail over on your own junk or sampan. Opened by a French/Corsican chef, the ownership is now Chinese, but the food still gets great reviews. Find out more at http://www.thebayhk.com
A relaxing way to end your Lamma daytrip is to linger over a drink or three at one of Yung Shue Wan’s waterfront restaurants. Or, for the DIY. version, bring along a bottle of red, glasses and a corkscrew. Pop it open at the Pavilion, just past the library near Yung Shue Wan pier. It's usually deserted, and has a panoramic view of the sea, sunset, and surrounding hillsides. This is by far the romantic way to top off your day exploring island life Hong Kong style, whether you're with a beau or best friends. |
