Luckily, the town’s less-than-exotic name is just that – a name – so that the historic fishing village and bustling weekend destination has more than enough sights, sounds and culinary offerings to keep you coming back time and time again, especially if you have a little, helpful local knowledge under your belt.

Speaking of that name, it comes from Britain’s Lord Stanley, with a history beyond just being a pleasant beachside town to dine and shop. The town, was the largest settlement on the island when the British arrived in the mid-19th century. After Hong Kong was annexed in 1842, they made Stanley their administrative centre, before moving it to Victoria (present day Central.) It was also where the British surrendered to the Japanese in on Christmas Day, 1941 and, after the ’97 handover, Stanley Fort was occupied by the People’s Liberation Army.
Nowadays it takes less than a half hour to get to Stanley by bus from Central and, if you perch upstairs on a double-decker, you can gaze out at junks floating around Repulse and Deep Water bays as you breeze from concrete jungle to sea-side chic. Once at Stanley, you can easily see most of the town in a few hours – and that includes a leisurely lunch, shopping and sunning at Stanley Beach. But don’t expect serene sands and hushed cafes, as Stanley is a popular destination and usually overflowing with visitors on the weekends.

Though Stanley Market is designed for tourists – what with the endless array of Bruce Lee t-shirts and smiling Mao alarm clocks – you can find loads of treasures, some at better prices than in Central. From Stanley Market Road, the shopping area extends down multiple narrow back-alleys leading toward the water – it is a little adventure to check out the winding bazaar-like offshoots. You’ll find bargains on everything from Converse shoes to beach supplies to stylish sunglasses and novelty gifts for that friend’s looming birthday (including schmaltzy paintings of dragons on velvet and curious purses with silk-screened faces of Britney Spears and other Hollywood starlets on them). Be warned that the quality isn’t guaranteed on everything, so if you’re looking to pick up a silk robe or some gold jewellery, do your homework beforehand and know what you’re looking for.

Stanley Beach is just a short walk from the bus terminal on Stanley Village Road and the hordes of sand-encrusted families with beach inflatables in tow will point you in the right direction if you get lost. After passing the Stanley Water Sports Centre, where the town’s dragon boats are stored and paddlers practise for upcoming races, check out the Beach Club, 2813 5005) for a quick, easy mini margarita pizza ($76), a garden salad ($45) or other refreshments on your way down to the water. The menu isn’t expansive but it is the only real eatery on that side of the peninsula and has a nice upstairs veranda. On the beach, plenty of lifeguards make sure you’re safe, though the real danger is getting stepped on by the masses of fellow sun worshippers. Also, tread carefully when you take a dip in the water as it can get a little rough and rocky not too far out.

Back on the other side of the peninsula by Stanley Market, Main Street is essentially a row of quaint restaurants offering alfresco dining on the street’s ocean side promenade when the road is closed to traffic on weekends. At the moment, the boardwalk that will eventually be directly in front of the restaurant row is still under heavy construction. So, unfortunately, some of your view of the setting sun will be obstructed by belching construction equipment until at least August when the walkway is scheduled to be finished.

On Main Street, you can opt for French, Italian, American, Indian, Thai and lots more, or wander a bit further down to Stanley Plaza, close to the renovated Murray House, which has a covered amphitheatre that blends into a five-storey shopping mall. Tucked in here are the requisite Starbucks and McDonald’s, as well as ATMs and corner stores should you need to grab sunscreen or – hopefully not – an umbrella.
So, now with sand firmly lodged between our toes and shopping bags full of trinkets dangling from our arms, it is time for a quick stroll through the town’s culinary offerings to see what’s shaking in Stanley for the summer:

At the corner of Stanley Market Road and Stanley Main Road is the cheerfully bright blue seafood spot, The Boathouse (G/F, 86-88 Stanley Main Street, 2813 4467). This two-storey restaurant captures the feel of a harbour-side yachting hangout with plenty of nautical references; from the driftwood and antique harpoon tacked above the bar to the circular porthole-style windows that face out to the street. Try the seafood platter which includes crab legs, crawfish, prawns, scallops, clams, smoked salmon rolls, shrimp gazpacho and cocktail sauce with lemon ($148). You’ll also see diners getting their fingers messy with buckets of prawns, clams or black mussels ($122/162). The decadently rich Death By Chocolate dessert ($60) also comes highly recommended to sweetly finish
the meal.

Owned by the same group as the Boathouse, The Pickled Pelican (G/F, 90 Stanley Main Street, 2813 4313) is the perfect place to grab a quick pint – or sample their specialty Scottish whisky selection – and watch a match on a TV. The British-style pub/restaurant (also found in Central) offers a tasty fried Camembert ($68) and the highly recommended potato fish cake and garden salad ($134). If you’re sticking with the classics, can you go past fish and chips with tartar sauce and vinegar ($108)? And lemon meringue pie and rhubarb crumble ($55 each) are both served with vanilla sauce and strawberries.

Along similar lines as the Pickled Pelican is the less-expensive English style pub, the Smuggler’s Inn (90A Stanley Main Street, 2813 8852). The name comes from the actual sea smugglers that used to live in Stanley so the look is rustic nautical, with a wooden beam ceiling and old barrels used as stools. You can find traditional pub fare like the crispy fish and chips ($70), a steak sandwich ($55) or a burger ($70). Chicken wings or onion rings ($40 each) are available for snacks and for beers, there are more than ten on tap. There’s also a Carlsberg beer promotion for June where a pint during happy hour (Monday through Friday 6-10pm) is only $30.

Just across Stanley Market Road on the promenade is another culinary wonder, the Bayside Brasserie (25 Stanley Market Road, 2899 0818), which must boast the biggest menu in town as it scans western, Italian, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and just about everything in between. This means you can sit down for some Louisiana crab cakes ($68), a plate of tandoori chicken (full $100/half $68), the Norwegian salmon fillet with asparagus ($148) or the rich penne arrabiatta ($78). The options are endless, as is the view of Stanley Bay from the massive art
deco windows.

Within the famed Murray House’s expansive rooms and high ceilings with their beautiful, oversized ceiling fans are several dining surprises. The large colonial structure once stood proud in Central before being taken apart, block-by-block, and impressively reassembled in Stanley in the late 1990s. The building’s renovation has left all the colonial architectural charm while integrating several fantastic restaurants.

On the building’s top floor is the Bavarian king of Stanley’s international cuisine, King Ludwig Beerhall (Shop 202, Murray House, Stanley Plaza, 2899 0122). The beerhall is epic in size with traditional cedar tables and beer steins bigger than a small child (most are for display only). Lentil soup ($50) is a popular starter as are the mushroom and herb potato cakes ($180). For a main course, try the German sausages (or Weiner schnitzel) served with fried potato and a salad ($165). Apparently the ‘can’t miss’ part of the menu is the warm, fresh farm rolls (four for $20) and beer sticks (three for $20) needed to soak up the vast array of German beers you might sample, including Sanmichlaus ($68), one of the strongest beers in the world at 14% alcohol!

A visit to Stanley can include a little sprinkling of everything the historic town has to offer: this means getting just enough sun on the sandy beaches, purchasing a few baubles and cheap goods from the market, and taking advantage of the alfresco dining. With culinary options that range as widely as Stanley’s, it’s more than feasible to weave your way through the packed Main Street restaurant row trying appetizers, sharing meals and swilling a perfectly chilled glass of wine, sangria or beverage of your choice while the sun slowly sets on this buzzing seaside destination.