If there were some sort of food district competition, Tai Hang would perhaps be reasonably dubbed the dark horse of the contest. Situated behind the quietest side of Victoria Park and nestled amongst residential buildings and local schools, one of the few attractions of this part of town is the small but uniquely structured Lin Fa Kung (Lotus) Temple and Garden, which houses Kwun Yum, goddess of mercy. But those lucky enough to visit during lunch or dinner time may be ‘blessed’ by the goddess and sent further down Tung Lo Wan Road to discover the rich array of eateries just a few blocks from the temple.

Most of the Tai Hang eateries are in the little grid of roads defined by Wun Sha Street and Tung Lo Wan Road. Consisting of a network of garages, multi-storey housing and alleyways over an area of around only 10 blocks, it seems a most unlikely precinct to find a good meal. Yet, a leisurely wander reveals a surprisingly eclectic collection of dining options ranging from old, traditional establishments to new fusion eateries. With the absence of mirrored skyscrapers, bustling crowds and screaming traffic that characterize many of Hong Kong’s other food districts, Tai Hang’s surroundings add a certain nostalgic charm to a dining experience.

1. Hong Kee congee shop (G/F, 11 King St; 2808 4518) run by a single family spanning three generations is somewhat of an institution in Tai Hang. Each day, in the front of this humble 30-year-old shop stands the dear old grandpa, expertly rolling out sheets of cheung fan (rice noodle rolls) with a skill that has been honed over the years. The prices have remained humble through the decades, congees range from $6-$22, and rice and noodle sets cost between $20 and $25. When asked, “What is your most popular dish?” the reply was, “Everything sells really well!” Open daily from 6-12am.

2. With its comfortable sofas that one could sink into for hours (and late into the night), The Café on the Corner (G/F, 4 King St; 2882 7135) really is as welcoming as its name suggests. There’s not much in the way of people watching, unless you happen to enjoy watching mechanics fix cars, but who cares about the outside when there is a good selection of cakes within? Full meals are also served and they recommend the pork chops with balsamic reduction ($88). Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2am; Sat, Sun 10:30am-2am.

3. Wander past the many casual Chinese eating joints along Tung Lo Wan Road and you will light on Le Champignon (Shop E, G/F, Ming Sun Building, 92 Tung Lo Wan Rd; 2570 1200), another restaurant that stands out in Tai Hang. As the name suggests, this unexpected find exudes elegance and sophistication – a good place for a romantic dinner. Although the décor is modern and refined, the restaurant is neither ritzy nor formal – it has a very continental feel, as befits the French menu. Signature dishes include pan-fried goose liver with ginger sauce ($120), sautéed mussels with white wine broth ($150) and duck leg confit with spicy pasta ($280). The menu does not list desserts because that comes complimentary with the meal - each day a new dessert such as crème brulee, chocolate pudding or mango cheesecake is served. Open daily 6:30-11:30pm.

4. Cherry Garden (7 Wun Sha St; 3528 0852) is a friendly little restaurant serving a range of European dishes. A popular place to eat, the décor is clean and simple, adding to the smart casual atmosphere. The chef recommends the baby lamb chop alla florentina ($96) and the barbeque baby back ribs for which the menu warns of a 30-minute wait ($98). The dessert selection is particularly interesting and appealing, offering sweet delights such as Earl Grey pudding ($38), almond-hazelnut flavoured crème brulee ($33) and panna cotta ($32). Open daily 11am-3pm; 6-11:30pm.

5. Man Shing Restaurant (G/F, 16 Wun Sha St; 2577 5455) is another institution with a pretty spectacular history: it was originally founded by Hong Kong restaurateurs in India over 80 years ago and moved back to Hong Kong after 30 years of business. The same statue of Kwan Tai, god of war, that travelled with the founders to India now sits in the current Tai Hang location, and has certainly succeeded in protected the restaurant’s business. The eatery has just undergone a renovation, so you can enjoy its famed minced meat, Thai pork ribs and other small dishes ($30-$70) in a clean and modern setting. Open daily from 7:30am-10pm.

6.The Tsui Yee Tim 24-hour dim sum shop (95 Tung Lo Wan Road) is a rare treat and an exemplar of the cheap, traditional Hong Kong eateries that are becoming increasingly difficult to find: independent, no-frills, roadside eateries are now all too often knocked down in favour of bigger, more expensive chains. Stacks of bamboo steamers sit at the front, ready to be snatched up by hungry customers. Perpetually busy, the restaurant serves traditional dim sum (less than $20), such as the ‘big buns’, which they claim only few places left produce, chicken’s feet in black-bean sauce and siu mai all for bargain prices. Sitting either in the shop, or outside in the alleyway (if you’ve arrived at a peak meal time), you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped back 50 years. It is open 24 hours for a clientele ranging from taxi drivers to HK pop stars.

7. Only seven months old, the Jam Bakery Ltd (G/F, 28 Shepherd St; 2805 6696) is a relative newcomer to the area. However, it springs from a bakery classroom (visit jambakery.com) that has been around for three years, and has already attracted attention with its innovative confectionary creations. With a dainty orange sign and creatively shaped sweets, it brings to mind a toy shop, but tastier. Customer favourites include the mango dome cake ($180), black forest cake ($180) and homemade jams ($40-$95). The bakery classroom offers lessons – can kitchen-klutzes like me really learn to bake such beautiful cakes? Sounds too good to be true! Open Mon-Fri 2pm-10pm; Sat, Sun 1pm-10pm.

8. Yoko Yama (G/F, 14 Wun Sha St; 2882 6250) is a small but popular sushi bar, which can seat only a few customers at a time but ensures personal service. They serve an assortment of sushi ($12-$78), Japanese-style snacks (such as the yellowtail head grilled with salt, $170, or the Japanese leek, $20), tempura, rice and noodles. Or go for a set lunch, reasonably priced at $35 for a soba set to $68 for an assorted sashimi and sushi set. Open 12nn-3pm, 6pm-10pm; closed Mondays.

9. Cafe Locomotive (G/F, 11 Wun Sha St; 2882 8227) serves up contemporary Vietnamese fare. The ‘Locomotive’ comes from the story of an old hawker selling noodles near the engine at a train station in Vietnam. Passengers waiting for the train were so lured by the aroma of his simmering beef broth that a line, extending the whole length of the train, formed. This hawker refused many lucrative business offers, however, and never divulged his secret recipe. Café Locomotive claims its own secret recipe using beef bones and various spices to simmer into a rich broth. Much like the old hawker, Café Locomotive can often be found at lunch and dinner times to have gathered its own queue. Recommendations include the famed Locomotive signature rice noodle soup with beef ($63) and salt and pepper soft shell crab ($72). Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat, Sun, public holidays 11:30am-11pm.

10. Wing Hing Court (110-116 Tung Lo Wan Road; 2571 0560) is a friendly neighbourhood canteen popular with the locals, known particularly for its steamed meat dishes. Set meals (main dish, rice/noodle and soup/drink), with dishes such as scrambled eggs with char siu, fried rice and chicken fillets range from $24-$35. They also serve various breakfast and afternoon tea sets ($13-$22), which include French toast, noodles and sandwiches. Local customers can often be found chattering away to the manager, or keeping one eye on the television set as they dig into their meal. We recommend this place for a good old dose of the real Hong Kong. Open daily from 6:30am.

11. Step into Wun Sha’s Kitchen (G/F, 33 Wun Sha St; 2890 1230), one of the swankier and larger restaurants in this area: a massive crystal chandelier hangs from the ceiling and circular archways lend a traditional Chinese elegance. Wun Sha’s Kitchen differentiates itself from other such restaurants by reinventing and refining classic Chinese dishes. Signature dishes include steamed winter melon balls in superior soup ($78) and steamed fresh scallops with bean curd in black-bean sauce ($98). Open daily 12nn-3pm; 6-11pm.

12. No restaurant is as startling a find in Tai Hang as the Mi Casa Chilean Oyster Bar (G/F, 7 King St; 9468 8030). Situated next to garages and dai pai dongs, it couldn’t get much more incongruous. In business, the key phrase is ‘location, location, location’ and one might ask who would be crazy enough to open an oyster bar in Tai Hang. Nevertheless, once word has spread, it appears that a good restaurant will attract customers no matter what. Mi Casa has enjoyed increasing popularity and many returning customers, in no small part due its friendly owner, Garry, and its cosy, home-like atmosphere. Try the oyster platter ($328), including a variety of fresh oysters from Ireland, France and the UK, or the delectable duck liver and mushroom linguine ($125). Open 6pm-12am.