words katherine reedy

It might look intimidating, but The MegaBox can be tasty

In the industrial no-man’s land of Kowloon Bay, the behemoth MegaBox stands red and slightly sinister, signalling to onlookers that resistance is futile. It irradiates against the backdrop of the 15-storey Enterprise Square 5 towers overlooking Victoria Harbour and boasts not only an IMAX theatre and international-sized ice rink but also more than 20 eateries, both glamorous and greasy, to fuel fiendish turns around the MegaBox shops.

If you, like us, are oddly drawn to its pulsing red glow, keep in mind that the journey there is half the experience. While you can make the 15-minute trek from the Kowloon Bay MTR station on foot if you choose, we recommend you grab the free shuttle bus just outside the station, which leaves every four to nine minutes. On the way, you’ll pass mechanic’s shops and car lots, the less gentrified roots of the rapidly developing Bay area.

Once you’ve made it safely to the red monster, head to the upper levels if you want to be dazzled into forgetting the bumpy bus ride. The Oriental Lily (Shop 13-4, 2629 5038) boasts sea-foam green carpeting and upholstery, glimmering chandeliers, and a spectacular harbour view. Specials at the Lily include Shanghai and Beijing fare such as sliced Zhenjiang pork ($58), shark’s fin with chicken ($780), prawns with crispy conpoy and chilli ($138), sweet and sour yellow croaker ($138), Peking duck ($280), and their “famous” beggar’s chicken ($280), which you must order in advance.

Next door, MegaRed Chiuchow (Shop 13-5, 2359 0099), with sumptuous vermillion décor glinting against the mirrors surrounding its entrance, offers traditional Chiuchow cuisine from eastern Guandong province. As you sip your strong Tieguanyin tea in its typically tiny cups, you can choose from Chiuchow specialties including braised superior shark’s fin ($218 per head), sliced soya goose meat ($78), cold red crab (seasonal price), and steamed diced chicken wrapped with egg white ($68).

On the same strip of higher-end eateries, spacious Tack Hsin’s (Shop 13-1, 2770 6333) bustles on a weekday afternoon and provides more gorgeous views of the harbour almost as filling as its selection of Chinese dishes. Chef’s specials include braised beancurd with bamboo ($60), panfried conpoy with minced pork and lotus root ($65), fatty beef and enoki mushroom with satay sauce in claypot ($68), and sweet and sour pork with pineapple ($65). Sets for two come with combinations of pork, jellyfish, broccoli, prawns, lobster, abalone and grouper, and cost either $238 or $288.

The grand China House (Shop 13-2, 2798 8110) and its wedding banquet venue counterpart, the Banqueting House (Shop 13-3, 2798 8866), are featuring tofu dishes prepared for a Nestlé cross-promotion until September 3. The China House offers steamed beancurd with bird’s nest, crabmeat, vegetables with mashed pumpkin sauce, and chicken broth ($88) and pan-fried diced vegetables topped with scrambled egg white, with shrimps and black caviar side and steamed sliced beancurd in mashed pumpkin sauce
($88). The special can also be found at China House locations in Stanley and Wong Tai Sin.

Take the express escalators down a few levels and you’ll find the ambient dining atmosphere of Shanghai Xiao Nan Guo Cuisine (Shop 6-2, 2545 0880). In its low-lit dining area, tables are covered with crisp linen with dark wood ornamentations, fine settings for a recommended dinner of mixed vegetables salad with special house dressing ($58), Sichuan style deep-fried chicken ($88), and stir-fried river shrimp ($158).

For a less refined seafood experience, try Siu Shun Village Cuisine (Shop 7-6, 2798 9738), where the food comes straight from the rustic tank at the door.

Star of Shan Tung (aka Star of Shandong) (Shop 9-23, 2359 0188) specializes in the cuisine of its titular region, as well as various types of dim sum. Cold dishes include soy beef ($34) and homemade-style smoked fish ($42), and hot dishes beef noodle soup with red chili oil ($38) and fried nian gao New Year’s cake ($48).

Asian dining in the MegaBox isn’t all Chinese – several other cuisines are represented as well. One of these, Pho Vietnamese (Shop 8-3, 2359 0117), offers steak pho ($35), steak brisket, flank, tendon, meatballs, and tripe pho ($46) as well as buttered chicken wings ($36 or $49 for four or six pieces).

Shirokiya No.1 (Shop 2-34, 2817 5788) stands among a handful of Japanese establishments staking their claim at the MegaBox. In addition to various types of sushi and sashimi, its specials include fresh squid sashimi ($128), tsuki no utage sushi set (40 pieces for $488), pancakes served with various of fruit and ice-cream ($68), and Shirokiya broiled salmon pizza ($68).

If you’re feeling a bit sluggish, a skate across the MegaIce rink should help get your appetite back. Then you can keep your cool with a foray into one of the numerous dessert shops in the MegaFeast food court. At Sora ti.te.mo (L10-8, 2359 0192), an outlet of Fuzion smoothies, sample some of the brightly coloured ice creams – it’s $20 for one scoop and $25 for two.

For insatiable snackers, the MegaFeast has several fast-food restaurants that offer more than burgers and fries. RISO Café (Shop 10-6, 2376 3081) specializes in various types of pasta and risotto. Their lunch sets, such as the Italian seafood risotto ($52) come with a choice of fruit and an aloe-vera smoothie from a colourful list that includes the Strawberry Tribute, Apple and Eve, and Cool-it Cucumber.

It may be a fast-food joint, but Te (Shop 10-4, 2151 1661) stands out from the lowbrow crowd with its classy exterior and superior pasta and tea. The Japanese-owned chain’s highlights include spaghetti pescatore ($68) and ground beef and eggplant spaghetti with creamy tomato sauce ($68).

At MADO Ice Cream (L1-47, 2359 0190), behind-the-counter dessert makers whip up Turkish-style thick ice cream. Their homemade giant sundaes drip with unusual toppings; the Turkish Bomb ($35, $5 extra if you want a waffle bowl) explodes with pistachios, apricots, sliced almonds, and coconut, while the Healthy Beauty is loaded with mellow banana ice cream, blueberries, raisins, corn flakes, and cocoa pops. MADO’s old-fashioned, pale-green parlour seems out of place among nearby handbag and jewellery shops but it is a place of respite for weary shoppers.

If you’re still looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, The Cheesecake Café (Shop 5-5, 2629 5008) serves 23 types of cheesecake, including lychee green tea, Black Forest cake, dulce de leche, and blueberry for $32 per slice and $384 per whole cake. The café also serves ample caffeine in cappuccinos, lattes, espressos, and teas costing between $13 and $28.

To cap off a day at the MegaBox, head back up to the BEA IMAX theatre, and stop by the American-themed Studio City Bar and Café (Shop 11-12, 3543 5638) for enormous racks of ribs and towering burgers. They specialize in food for large appetites, like spicy angel hair pasta with imported Alaska king crab ($118), USA baby back ribs slow-cooked for hours, served with special barbecue sauce, baked potato and vegetables ($82 half slab, $128 full slab), and the Boss Burger, a double-beef burger with double cheese and sautéed mushrooms, that comes with a side of French fries ($68).

If you find yourself weary of the MegaBox’s outsized attitude, standard tea and noodle shops line the streets of Kowloon Bay. These are favoured by local industrial workers, a far cry from the excess of the nearby mall. Local hangouts include Naruto Japanese (9 Sheung Yuet Road, 2796 7788), which serves grilled cod fish with miso paste ($85) and grilled beef and kimuchi stone pot set ($78). Nearby, the Cantina Palm (6 Wang Kwun Road, 2799 8903) and spacious Kee Hing (19 Lam Lok Street, 2799 6111) hawk fast Cantonese lunch sets, such as curry chicken rice, Yangzhou fried rice, and Ma Po tofu rice, for $24 to $35.