words katherine reedy, evening zhu

It might not be the prettiest part of town, but what Kowloon City lacks in looks, it makes up for in culinary abundance.

A neighborhood that once housed the decrepit, vice-ridden Walled City, and later bordered the long-defunct Kai Tak Airport, the City is infamous for its rough-edged past. But nowadays, well-known restaurants and hidden gems are found on each arm of the grid that extends from central Nga Tsin Wai Road. And in what was once a self-sufficient, enclosed neighbourhood, a certain familial spirit still reigns. Restaurant staff pop down to the market to pick up ingredients and make conversation, and restaurants with more than one storefront send servers down the block, or across the street, to deliver tea balanced on trays and dinner plates in plastic containers.

To begin our Kowloon City odyssey, we started at Pak Don (84B Nga Chin Wai Road, 2382 6318), which serves Malaysian and Singaporean food: Traditional lunch fare includes Mandarin chicken rice ($28) and curry chicken rice ($28). At first glance, the food is as unassuming as the cafe-style eatery itself. But here it’s not the visual appeal that counts – the flavours of the simple curries and chicken accompaniment are unexpectedly rich and fresh.

Cambo Pho/Thai (13-27 Nga Tsin Long Road, 2716 7318) restaurant is festooned with clippings from Chinese publications and an assortment of absurdist cartoons. The food, though, is pretty straightforward. There’s raw prawn sashimi ($70), marinated pig’s trotters with preserved radish and Chinese cabbage ($58), and deep-fried shrimp cakes with king prawn’s roe ($60). But the restaurant’s popularity is obvious – it is connected to a row of spin-off venues, making Cambo Pho the Thai king of the street.

Among the many Thai restaurants, Wong Chun Chun Thai (Basement, G/F and 1/F, Belshine Centre, No 23 Tak Ku Ling Road, 2716 6269) exudes a high-end atmosphere that might be what you’re looking for when dining out – or it might seem a bit ridiculous surrounded by so many deliciously cheap eateries. Dishes include deep-fried lobster with garlic and chili ($248), roasted chicken with namyo ($140 each, $75 for half), and tomyum scallop soup (small $88, medium $148, large $178).

Tim Lok Yuen Eating House (G/F, 4 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, 2382 2369) advertises its wares in hand-written menus on sheets of plain paper that wrap around the entire interior. Ask for the specials, and you’ll get hearty plates of dishes such as Beijing beef sauce on noodles ($28) and sizzling-hot fish cooked with onions, leeks, and savory sauce ($52). Other specialties include shrimp dumplings with mushroom, broccoli, and bamboo shoots ($20) and Cantonese pork in rice ($36).

On the main Kowloon City avenue, Dragon Palace (39-41 Nga Tsin Wai Road, 2382 2450) is a walk-up restaurant that serves traditional Chinese fare. Here, you’ll find pan-fried prawns ($42), deep-fried tofu ($35), and garlic roasted chicken ($80 for half, $148 for whole).

Much like Chinese vegetarian food deviates only from other Chinese fare in the substance of its protein, to all normal intents and purposes halal food in Kowloon City is only nominally distinct from other cuisine. At Islam Food Specialty (G/F, 23 Lung Kong Road, 2718 3809), you won’t find any Cantonese pork, but noodles and dumplings abound. Recommended dishes include cold noodles with sesame paste sauce and chicken ($26), dumplings with hot chili sauce ($23), Hsiao long bao in soup ($42 for 10), and veal goulash pies ($20).

Indian Curry King (G/F, 24 South Wall Road, 2716 5128) serves tandoori paneer ($62), murga curry ($54), murga tikka masala ($59), prawn curry ($92), and jeera prawns ($118) among others. The cozy restaurant also features a glittering, fully stocked bar – Bombay Sapphire included.

Sasa Cafe (G/F, 60 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, 2383 3229) looks like a typical cafe from the outside, but check the menu and you’ll find a listing of Western dishes including pasta, and steak. The first set dinner for two consists of the soup of the day, sirloin steak and squid with mushrooms, smoked salmon and crab roe with angel hair pasta, honey roasted duck breast with orange sauce, and dessert ($168). The second option, also for two, includes grilled rib eye steak with mussel sauce, grilled king prawns and scallops with angel hair, pan-fried pork fillet with balsamic sauce, and pan-fried barramundi cod with olive and tomato – and dessert ($188).

Copacalana (11-13 Hau Wong Road, 2383 1228) is another Western venue, this time connected to a French-style pastry shop just across the street. The main mint-green restaurant has the air of a verandah cafe, and the smaller dessert venue is an ideal alcove for furtive couples. Sweet treats include creme brulee ($28), chocolate pudding cake ($35), and tiramisu ($35).

Royal Desserts (G/F, 15 South Wall Road, 2382 6808) displays its goods in bright pictures plastered across its front window, and for good reason. Their towering dishes, which look more like psychedelic sculptures than confections, are extremely aesthetically appealing. Specialties include green tea ice cream with red beans ($26), mango pudding ($14), mango with coconut noodles ($22), and Japanese-style red bean and tofu ($22).

When we stopped by the more traditional Hop Shing Chiu Chow Dessert (9 Lung Kong Road, 2383 3026), it was filled with dessert lovers – a sure sign of sweetshop success. Eschewing gaudy ice creams, Hop Shing’s treats include bowls of lotus seeds and egg with ice or milk ($21) and sago, red beans, green beans, and lily bulbs ($31).

Finally, Ceres Boulangerie (19 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, 2716 3383) adds a dash of European pastry craft to the many Chinese bakeries that line Nga Tsin Wai Road. Glass cases house butter baguettes ($14), walnut raisin rye loaves ($24), walnut soft bread ($23), and macaroons in rose, hazelnut, and lemon ($10 each).

Golden Thai BBQ (9 Hau Wong Road) is tucked along the highway, its street-food fare reflecting its gritty surroundings. Sticks laden with various roast meats are stacked high at its humble entrance. Sample the pigeon ($35), or various pieces of chicken – liver and heart both go for $8 – or Thai sour meat ($10) and sausage ($10) for as rustic a Thai experience as you can find outside of Bangkok.

Ruamjai Thai Restaurant (G/F, 11-13 Tak Ku Ling Road, 2716 4588) gets back down to business, with a plain red-and-white exterior, glaring lighting, and gilt shrines. Here you’ll find omelette with minced pork ($42), pork hock in dark soy sauce ($40), and deep-fried chicken and pork with garlic and pepper ($48).