In a three-part series, we will explore the jewels of Yunnan – beginning with Li Jiang.

In the 1930s, English writer James Hilton penned a novel about a utopian Himalayan valley called Shangri La. When the book, Lost Horizon, became famous, the name of the valley passed into the English language as a metaphor for any hidden paradise on earth, difficult to find but wonderful to behold. Heated debates have swirled around the actual geography Hilton based his fabled valley on and Zhongdian, a county secreted at the north-eastern tip of Yunnan province, is often quoted as the author’s inspiration, even if he didn’t directly refer to it. In fact, the Chinese government is so convinced and proud of the place that the State Department officially renamed the county Shangri La in 2001. In this and the following two issues, bc visits some of the most remarkable spots in the Shangri La and Li Jiang region and you decide if it is Hilton’s – or your own – paradise.

First we start off at Li Jiang – with no direct railway, it takes 40 minutes by plane or nine hours by coach to the city from Kunming, the capital of Yunnan province. Remote, and the antithesis of the crammed, commercialized and industrialized Kunming, Li Jiang has preserved much of its cultural heritage even though it has become an increasingly popular destination for travellers worldwide.

Entering the Old Town District, listed by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage site in 1997, is like stepping onto the set of an ancient martial arts film. Beautiful and refined architecture of the Ming and Qing dynasties lines both sides of a central canal in the 800-odd-year-old city and acts as a majestic backdrop to the countless cafés and shops on the main thoroughfares and – more interestingly – hidden in side alleys. Various hostels and hotels operate in the old city, but book in advance if you go in summer as demand is high during peak season. Whether you spend hours wandering the occasionally steeply winding roads, ferreting out your favourite traditional Naxi embroidery, sipping tea in one of the many cosy cafes or bar hopping along the canal after dark, do not miss climbing the Qian Xue Garth for a spectacular view over the city.

Yunnan is a nature lover’s dream. Bordering Vietnam, Laos and Burma, the province offers a panorama of natural beauty – from alpine mountains and rainforests to beautiful lakes and magnificent stone formations. The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, visible from most of Li Jiang, is virtually the backdrop to the city. Ascending more than 5,500 metres, the cable car journey to the top is a breathtaking experience, in more ways than one.

The 300,000 souls of the Naxi minority group living in the region consider Jade Dragon Snow Mountain the incarnation of Sanduo, the most powerful god in their mythology. On the 8th day of the second lunar month, the Sanduo Festival pays tribute to the god and invokes his protection for the year. Traditional rituals, colourful costumes, music, dance and local food an outsider may or may not care to taste are all part of this, one of the most important days of the year for the Naxi. Alternatively, head to the Zhang Yimou-created cultural show about the traditions and lifestyles of the Naxi, Yi and Bai peoples. Staged at the outdoor theatre of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Park, the show is indeed a spectacle with over 500 performers and horses. Of course it is now geared to tourists, but that is no reason for not checking it out.

The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain also gives the best view of Hei Long Tan – the Black Dragon Pool Park. A short walk from the northern end of the old town, this is described by some as the Central Park of Li Jiang and features a multitude of attractions for any eager visitor. The Moon-Embracing Pavilion, the Dragon God Temple and the Five Phoenix Tower are irresistible to camera-toting picture collectors, but most fascinating are the local people. Men play chess and women mahjong while the domestically conscientious shoulder empty buckets which they will fill with water from the park’s spring. That spring is also a gathering point for mothers who labour at laundry while keeping wary eyes on wayward offspring. The spring water is clear and chill and will, the locals believe, cure stomach and tracheitis problems. I am not sure about that, but it’s sweet and fresh – and I am still happily here today.

Banyan Tree Li Jiang – In Paradise with Style
When we say living in paradise, we don’t only mean visiting its magnificent natural beauty or its rich cultural heritage. You can literally live in a paradise by staying in Banyan Tree Li Jiang, the world-famous luxurious resort. Just 15 minutesaway from the historical old town, the resort offers exclusive accommodation in its masterly crafted traditional Nazi architecture with world-classfacilities and dining options, as well as the award-winning Banyan Tree Spa. To have your sneak preview of the two Banyan Tree resorts at Li Jiang and Ringha, stay tuned to our Yunnan series or visit www.banyantree.com.

Win a Free Trip!
Stay tuned for parts two and three of our Yunnan series and have a chance to win a Shangri La Ringha Banyan Tree three-day
two-night holiday package ($9,800) or a two-night stay in the Li Jiang Banyan Tree Garden Suite ($4,200)!

Seers Holiday operated by Tai Wah Hong Travel Service offers travel packages to Yunnan with Dragon Air flights from Hong Kong to Kunming, and a domestic flight by China Eastern Airlines to Li Jiang or Di Qing. Accommodation is at the Li Jiang Banyan Tree or Ringha Banyan Tree. The three special packages are:

BTJ4A: Li Jiang Banyan Tree 4 Days 3 Nights Garden Suite HK$5,300/Garden Villa HK$6,800
BTR4A: Shangri La Ringha Banyan Tree 4 Days 3 Nights with Tibetan Suites HK$5,700
BTJR4A: Li Jiang and Shangri La Ringha 5 Days 4 Night Garden Suite with Tibetan
Suites HK$6,900
(All prices exclude taxes and fuel surcharge. Prices valid until March 31, 2009.)

Seers Holiday Operated by Tai Wah Hong Travel Service Ltd
(Licence Number: 350108)
Address: 4/F, Shum Tower,
268 Des Voeux Road, Central, Hong Kong
Contact: 2521 2378/ twh@taiwahhong.com.hk
Website: www.seersholiday.com

Rachel’s flight tickets and accommodation were provided by Seers Holiday and Banyan Tree.