Beyond the MTR Island Line’s reach, the neighborhood of Sai Ying Pun is one of many contradictions and intriguing finds. Sandwiched between Sheung Wan to the east and Shek Tong Tsui and Kennedy Town to the west, the neighborhood is accessible only by tram or bus.  Its fascinating history and location explains much of its eclectic personality. It started off as a British military camp and then survived an attack of bubonic plague in 1894.  Brothels flourished in the late 19th century at the same time the prestigious Hong Kong University was established in 1887.  It is also home to the steepest street in Hong Kong, Centre Street, where at its summit on Bonham Road the road descends at an almost impossible angle, rolling right up to the waterfront far below.  It’s a great place to still catch glimpses of old Hong Kong charm, but there are many signs the area is already undergoing re-development and urban renewal plans.
 
Its culinary delights reflect its multifarious nature, where one can find really great local and regional Chinese cuisine, desserts, and other Pan-Asian fare.
 
Ba Yi Restaurant
When Chef Ma came to Hong Kong, he brought with him the culinary traditions from his home in Xinjiang province of western China.  Many of the dishes on the menu are family recipes, but others have been collected while traveling through the province each year in his bright yellow jeep (see his photos on the restaurant’s walls), discovering new dishes to add to the menu. Already open for three years, Ba Yi will expand this November and also offer an updated menu. The restaurant’s interior attempts to evoke a sense of the region with long wooden communal tables, antique style hanging lamps and the staff wears traditional folk patterned tops. Their specialties are the roasted lamb skewers ($30/5pc) and Xinjiang noodles ($23).  Other dishes worth trying are the camel, mutton or beef with pancake wrap and the traditional Xinjiang salad. Wash down some of the spiciness with a fresh cold yoghurt drink.  Before heading out the door, buy some dried fruits from Xinjiang, and savor more tastes of the region even after your meal here.
43 Water Street, Sai Ying Pun   Tel: 2484-9981
 
 
Ci Loi Heung Ye Zap Dan Gyun 
(Coconut Egg Roll Shop)
The sweet savory smell of coconut egg rolls baking permeates the entire shop, enticing customers to linger inside this tiny bakery and buy some of their mouth-watering egg wafer rolls.  The cookies are delicately light and airy and simply irresistible.  With so many varieties, this shop will warrant return visits to try the plain egg roll, the double roll, the red bean-sugar-coconut-peanut egg roll, dried pork roll, and the sesame egg roll.  A pack of 10 is only $14. The shop also sells other treats, including wife cakes, vanilla wafers, lemon sandwich cookies, and many other traditional Chinese baked goods.
66 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun   Tel: 2975 9271

Fuku Robatayaki and Kaki
Enjoy robatayaki-style grilled and skewered meats at this cozy Japanese restaurant.  
69 High Street, Sai Ying Pun  Tel: 2540 9961

Sun Chiu Kee Restaurant
By far the most popular local cha chaan teng in the neighborhood, every table was occupied on a late Sunday evening. Open daily from 7:30am to 11pm, diners can fill up on Chinese comfort foods like noodle and rice dishes, rice pots, or congee any time of the day.  The stir fried beef with black bean sauce rice dish ($28) and the braised noodle with vegetable, friedpork and chili sauce ($27) are both good choices for a quick and satisfying meal.
G/F, Blissful Building, 247 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Tel: 2147-3821
 
Sweet Classroom
This dessert shop embodies a sweeter, tastier version of what school should be: a brightly colored classroom that gives not homework or tests, but serves delicious desserts at shiny new school desks and chairs.  The big chalkboard displays no long and difficult algebra equations, but instead lists delectable descriptions and chalk drawings of its many dessert choices.  The inspiration?  Chef Tun, the owner of Sweet Classroom, studied under the chef at the now-closed Italian restaurant Bacci, and then decided to open her own place in Sai Ying Pun, the neighborhood of her school days.  The menu focuses on western-style desserts, with a few traditional Chinese items as well.  The tiramasu ($32), crème brulee and french toast bread pudding, some of the chef’s favorites, get top grades. 
142-150 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun  Tel:  2803-2933
 
Yu Kwen Yick
Yu Kwen Yick has been selling its famous hot sauce in Sai Ying Pun since 1922, where chili sauce founder Mr. Yu Siu Kee originally sold his sauces in its small alleys.  The family recipe has been handed down through the generations, and is still run by Mr. Yu’s descendents.  His chili sauce is now regarded as one of the best in the world, frequently used in five-star hotels and restaurants throughout Hong Kong.  Visitors can stroll in to the new storefront and pick up a bottle for themselves or as a great gift or souvenir for the chili-sauce lovers in their lives (small bottle is $14).  The staff recommends pairing the sauce with fried noodles, dim sum and turnip cake. 
G/F 8 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun  Tel: 2568 8007